제주도에 있는 동안 한라산을 다녀왔습니다. 등반 팀에 참석한 사람 아홉 사람 가운데 여자는 아내 밖에 없었고 나이도 많으니 민폐가 되지 않을까 염려분과를 소집합니다. 여전도사님들께서 “너무 무리하시 마시고 힘들면 도중에 내려오세요.”라고 아내를 배려하기도 했습니다. 우리 부부는 한 이십년쯤 전에 한라산을 다녀온 적이 있었지만 그동안 세월이 많이 지났으니까요. 등산로만 왕복 19.2km로 9시간 걸린다고 12시 전에 진달래 대피소에 도착해야 정상까지 갈 수 있다고 해서 좀 일찍 나선다고 했지만 8시 반쯤에야 해발 750m 높이에 있는 성판악 주차장에 도착했습니다. 벌써 많은 차들이 주차해 있어서 결국 길가에 주차할 수밖에 없었지요. 모두들 꽤 일찍 온 모양입니다.
차에서 내려 보니 바람도 불고 날씨가 추워서 장갑에 마스크까지 착용하고 걷기를 시작했습니다. 하지만 올라가면서 날씨가 점점 좋아져 쾌청할 뿐만 아니라 따뜻해지기도 했습니다. 모두 옷들을 하나씩 벗기 시작했으니까요. 속밭 대피소에 잠깐 들러 간식도 먹고 화장실도 들렀다가 다시 오르막길을 올랐습니다. 얼마 지나지 않아 탐방로가 얼음과 눈으로 덮인 곳이 많아 아이젠을 착용했어야 했지요. 예전과는 달리 탐방로가 정말 잘 다듬어져 있었습니다. 나무 데크로 된 곳도 있고 돌로 깔린 길도 있었으며, 역시 오를수록 달라지는 수종이며 경관이 볼만했습니다. 주목에 눈꽃이 피어 있고 어떤 나무들은 얼음 꽃들이 달려있었습니다. 높은 나무에는 겨우살이꽃도 보였습니다.
머물러 서서 자세히 들여다보고 싶었지만 그럴 시간이 없었습니다. 한두 장 스냅 사진을 찍는 것이 고작이었습니다. 그래도 오르다가 숨 돌릴 틈을 타서 한 번씩 내려다 본 산 아래 모습은 장관이었습니다. 산허리를 두른 아름다운 구름과 함께 군데군데 눈을 뒤집어쓴 오름들 하며 맑은 하늘 빛깔이 감동적이었습니다. 진달래 대피소에 11시 반에 도착을 했습니다. 얼른 컵라면 아홉 개를 사서 숙소에서 싸온 도시락과 함께 부랴부랴 먹었습니다. 좀 급히 먹긴 했지만 꿀맛이었습니다. 그런데 정상에서 오후 한시 반에는 내려와야 하니까 지체하지 말고 빨리 올라가라는 방송이 우리를 재촉했습니다. 아침에 꾸물거리지 말고 더 일찍 왔으면 좀여유가 있을 뻔했습니다.
어두워지기 전에 등산을 마쳐야 하기에 열심히 오른 덕분에 한 시쯤에 는 정상에 도착할 수 있었습니다. 내려다보이는 백록담엔 물을 마시는 흰 사슴 대신 군데군데 흰 눈으로 덮여 있는 분화구 바닥 덕분에 역시 백록담이었습니다. 백록담을 내려다보는 정상에는 세찬 바람 때문에 춥기도 하고 오래 서 있을 수는 없었습니다. 게다가 또 재촉하는 방송 덕분에 인증 샷으로 사진 한두 장 후딱 찍고, 보온병의 차를 나누어 마시고는 내려왔습니다. 내려오는 길에 남부럽지 않은 체력을 가진 목사님 한 분이 무릎을 삐끗하는 바람에 빨리 걸을 수 없어서 모두 함께 속도를 늦추었습니다. 그래도 친구들이 서로 짐을 들어주기도 신발을 바꿔주기도 하며 함께 내려오는 그 모습도 보기에 좋았습니다. 오후 5시 45분쯤 성판 악 주차장에 도착했을 때는 마음이 뿌듯했습니다. 이 나이에 그래도 1,950m로 남한에서는 가장 높은 산을 오를 수 있었다는 것이 말입니다. 그리고 함께 걸을 수 있는 좋은 동료들이 있다는 것이 감사했습니다.
During our stay on Jeju Island, we hiked Mount Hallasan. Out of the nine members in our climbing group, my wife was the only woman, and given our age, we convened our own little 'worry committee,' wondering if we might become a burden to the others. Some of the female evangelists kindly showed their consideration for my wife, saying, “Please don’t push yourself too hard; if it gets too difficult, you can always turn back midway.” My wife and I had climbed Mount Hallasan about twenty years ago, but quite a lot of time had passed since then. The round-trip trail alone spans 19.2 kilometers and is said to take about nine hours. We were told that one must reach the Jindallaebat Shelter before noon to be permitted to push on to the summit. We tried to set off early, but it was already around 8:30 AM when we arrived at the Seongpanak parking lot, situated at 750 meters above sea level. So many cars were already parked there that we had no choice but to park alongside the road. Evidently, everyone else had arrived quite early.
Stepping out of the car, the wind was biting and the weather was quite chilly, so we put on our gloves and masks before setting out. As we climbed, however, the weather gradually cleared and became not only bright and sunny but also pleasantly warm. Soon, everyone began shedding their layers one by one. We stopped briefly at the Sokbat Shelter to have a light snack, used the restrooms, and then resumed our uphill trek. Before long, much of the trail became covered in snow and ice, requiring us to put on our crampons. Unlike in the past, the trail was remarkably well maintained. Some sections were laid with wooden boardwalks, while others were paved with stones. True to form, the shifting tree species and changing landscape as we ascended were truly a sight to behold. Frost flowers bloomed on the yew trees, while delicate ice crystals adorned other branches. High up in the taller trees, mistletoe flowers could also be spotted.
I longed to pause and examine them more closely, but there simply was no time to spare. Snapping a quick photo or two on the go was the best I could do. Even so, whenever I caught my breath and looked down, the view below the mountain was breathtaking. The graceful belt of clouds wrapped around the mountain’s waist, the volcanic cones (oreum) dusted here and there with white snow, and the vibrant hue of the clear sky stirred deep emotion in my heart. We reached the Jindallaebat Shelter at 11:30 AM. We quickly bought nine cups of instant noodles and ate them in a hurry alongside the packed lunches brought from our lodging. Though eaten somewhat in haste, it tasted absolutely heavenly. However, public announcements urged us along, reminding hikers that everyone must begin descending from the summit by 1:30 PM, so we could not afford any delay. Had we hurried a bit more in the morning instead of dallying, we might have enjoyed a little more leisure.
Knowing we had to finish the hike before nightfall, we pressed on diligently, reaching the summit around 1:00 PM. Looking down upon Baengnokdam, instead of the mythical white deer drinking at the crater lake, the floor was blanketed with patches of pristine white snow—living up to its name in its own quiet way. At the peak overlooking Baengnokdam, the winds were so fierce and freezing that it was impossible to linger for long. Moreover, with the ranger broadcasts continually urging hikers onward, we swiftly took a couple of proof-of-visit photos, shared some hot tea from a thermos, and began our descent. On the way down, one pastor—known for his enviable physical stamina—sprained his knee and could no longer walk quickly, so our entire group slowed our pace to match his. Still, watching friends carry each other's packs and even swap boots to help one another down was a truly heartwarming sight. When we finally returned to the Seongpanak parking lot around 5:45 PM, a profound sense of fulfillment welled up in my heart. At this age, to have successfully climbed the highest peak in South Korea at 1,950 meters was no small grace. Above all, I felt deeply grateful to have such wonderful companions walking by our side.
Tydens ons verblyf op Jeju-eiland het ons Hallasan-berg besoek. Onder die nege lede van ons stapspan was my vrou die enigste dame, en gegewe ons gevorderde ouderdom, het ons ons eie klein 'bekommernis-komitee' belê uit vrees dat ons dalk 'n las vir die res sou wees. Van die vroulike evangeliste het vriendelik en bedagsaam teenoor my vrou gesê: “Moet u asseblief nie ooreis nie; as dit te swaar raak, kan u altyd halfpad omdraai.” My vrou en ek het sowat twintig jaar gelede Hallasan al geklim, maar sedertdien het baie jare verloop. Die staproete alleen is 'n retoerrit van 19,2 km wat na raming nege uur duur, en aangesien 'n mens die Jindallaebat-skuiling voor twaalfuur die middag moet bereik om na die kruin te mag voortgaan, het ons probeer om vroeg te vertrek. Tog was dit eers teen sowat 8:30 vm. dat ons by die Seongpanak-parkeerterrein op 750 meter bo seespieël aangekom het. Daar was reeds soveel motors geparkeer dat ons noodgedwonge langs die pad moes intrek. Almal het blykbaar baie vroeg opgedaag.
Toe ons uit die motor klim, het 'n ysige wind gewaai en die weer was koud, sodat ons handskoene en maskers aangetrek het voor ons begin stap het. Soos ons egter hoër geklim het, het die weer al hoe mooier geword—nie net helder en wolkloos nie, maar ook aangenaam warm. Almal het gou hul oorjasse een vir een begin uittrek. Ons het 'n kort rukkie by die Sokbat-skuiling vertoef om 'n ligte versnapering te geniet en die ruskamer te besoek, waarna ons die steil pad weer aangedurf het. Nie lank daarna nie was groot dele van die wandelpad met ys en sneeu bedek, sodat ons ons stygysters (krampons) moes aansit. Anders as in die verlede was die paadjie merkwaardig goed versorg. Sommige dele het uit houtdekke bestaan en ander was met klippe uitgelê; boonop was die veranderende boomsoorte en asemrowende uitsigte soos ons hoër geklim het, 'n ware fees vir die oog. Ysblomme het op die taksbome geblom, terwyl ander bome met fyn yskristalle oortrek was. Hoog in die bome kon 'n mens selfs die blommetjies van die voëlent sien.
Ek wou graag stilstaan en dit alles van naderby bekyk, maar daar was eenvoudig nie tyd voor nie. Om haastig 'n foto of twee te neem, was al wat ons kon vermag. Tog, wanneer ons tydens 'n blaaskans 'n oomblik ondertoe gekyk het, was die natuurskoon onder die berg manjifiek. Die lieflike gordel van wolke om die berghange, die verspreide vulkaniese keëls (oreum) wat met wit sneeu besprinkel was, en die kristalhelder blou lug het die hart diep geraak. Ons het om 11:30 vm. by die Jindallaebat-skuiling aangekom. Ons het gou nege koppies kitsnoedels gekoop en dit haastig saam met die kosblikke wat ons van die herberg saamgebring het, verorber. Al het ons dit in 'n haas geëet, het dit soos heuning gesmaak. 'n Luidsprekerberig het ons egter gemaan dat stappers teen 1:30 nm. reeds van die kruin moet begin terugkeer en ons dus sonder versuim moet voortstap. As ons die oggend net minder gedrentel het en vroeër vertrek het, sou ons heelwat meer tyd en rus gehad het.
Omdat ons die staptog voor donker moes voltooi, het ons fluks geklim en kon ons teen ongeveer eenuur die middag die kruin bereik. Toe ons afkyk op Baengnokdam, was daar in plaas van wit herte wat by die meer water drink, lappies maagdelike wit sneeu wat die kraterbodem bedek het—inderdaad 'n waardige gesig vir die naam Baengnokdam. Op die bergspits wat oor Baengnokdam uitkyk, was die wind egter so snydend koud dat 'n mens nie lank kon bly staan nie. Danksy die herhaalde aankondigings wat ons aangespoor het, het ons vinnig 'n paar bewysfoto's geneem, warm tee uit die termosfles gedeel en die terugpad aangepak. Op pad af het een van die leraars—wat andersins oor benydenswaardige krag en stamina beskik—sy knie verstuit en kon hy nie vinnig loop nie, sodat die hele groep ons pas vertraag het om by syne aan te pas. Dit was nietemin 'n hartverblywende gesig om te aanskou hoe vriende mekaar se rugsakke dra en selfs skoene omruil om mekaar te help afkom. Toe ons teen 5:45 nm. weer by die Seongpanak-parkeerplek aankom, was my gemoed vervul met dankbaarheid en vreugde. Dat ons op hierdie ouderdom steeds die hoogste berg in Suid-Korea op 1 950 meter kon uitklim, was 'n groot voorreg. En bowenal was ek innig dankbaar vir goeie reisgenote wat die pad saam met ons kon stap.