7월 3일부터 5일까지 이번 여름 여행은 장흥, 해남, 강진의 끝자 돌림을 따서 <흥남진 투어>라고 부르기로 했습니다. 우리가 이미 알고 있는 흥남부두라는 단어에 강진의 끝자 진을 붙인 셈입니다. 이번 <흥남진 투어>는 두 대의 승용차를 이용해서 2박 3일의 여름여행을 4 가정이 함께 했습니다. 그런데 가기로 한 날짜에 장마가 시작된다는 일기예보로 인해서 한 주간 전에 취소될 뻔했습니다. 하지만 장마라고 해서 3천리 반도 모든 땅에 꼭 같은 분량의 비를 뿌릴 리도 없을터이니 그대로 실시해서 정한 기간에 잘 다녀왔습니다. 물론 사흘동안 비 때문에 문제가 생기지도 않았습니다. 때론 밤에는 비가 뿌렸지만 아침에는 푸른 하늘 흰구름의 가을 같은 맑은 날이었습니다.
벌교에서 무슨 점심을 먹었느냐고 물을 필요가 없습니다. 꼬막식당에서 꼬막을 먹었기 때문입니다. 벌교읍에 있는 태백산문학관을 들렀지만 저는 본래 문화보다는 자연을 선호하는 사람입니다. 게다가 세상을 한 눈으로만 보고, 듣고 싶은 것만을 듣고 소설을 썼다면, 글을 쓰기 위해 많은 사람을 만나본 것은, 팩트체크를 한 것은 아니라 자기의 선입견을 강화시킨 확증 편향(確證偏向)일 수도 있다는 우려도 스칩니다. 하지만 성경필사만 아는 제게 소설 태백산맥 필사는 새로운 시야를 열어주었습니다. “어머니 품” 장흥에서 가장 감동했던 것은 정남진 편백숲 우드랜드였고, 그 가운데 핵심은 정상까지 설치된 데크였습니다. 장애인의 입장에서는 아직도 미흡한 부분이 많겠지만 휠체어를 타고 억불산 정상을 올라가도록 데크를 설치한 것은 참으로 놀라운 사회적 약자에 대한 배려이기 때문입니다.
둘째날은 강진 투어입니다. 강진군을 한 마디로 알리는 표어는 기억나지 않고 50% 할인가로 여행을 할 수 있다는 현수막은 여기저기에 걸려있었습니다. 그러나 사실 강진에는 자랑스런 역사적 유산과 인공을 가미한 자연의 아름다움을 간직한 가우도도 기다리고 있었습니다. 세상을 가진 자와 갖지 못한 자로 나누고 평가한다면 시인 영랑은 브르조아 지식인으로 밀쳐두겠지만, “모란이 피기까지”를 비롯한 그의 시를 외웠던 기억이 있는 6,70대의 여행객의 입장에서는 반가운 만남이었습니다. 영랑생가를 둘러본 다음 우리는 다산 초당을 향했습니다. 비록 초당은 사라지고 건물은 와당으로 변했지만, 거기는 <목민심서> <경세유표> 등 엄청난 책들을 저술한 곳일뿐 아니라 밤이 깊어도 사립문을 닫지 않고 친구 혜장선사가 오도록 배려한 우정은 우리의 삶을 돌아보게 만듭니다. 서로를 알아보고 서로를 사랑하는 친구관계는 시대를 초월해서 칭송할만 합니다.
마지막 날 아침 일찍 해남 대흥사의 계곡 산책길에서 만난 하늘말나리가 기억에 오래 남습니다. 한 송이만 보아도 카메라를 들이댔는데 거의 군락지에 가까운 하늘말나리를 만났기 때문입니다. 그리고 마지막으로 “꽃들과 함께 걷는 아름다운 동행” <포레스트 수목원>의 수국정원도 참 아름다웠습니다. 간밤의 장맛비로 샤워를 한 것 같은 아름다움에 취해서 모두들 인생사진이라도 남길 태세로 열심히 사진을 찍고, 집집마다 수국을 구입했으니 내년에는 두동에서도 수국정원을 기대합니다. 그리고 돌아오는 길에, 뜻밖에 연결된 양탕국에서, 대표님의 설명과 함께 커피를 마시며 마지막 여유를 즐긴 다음, 울산 두동으로 돌아왔을 때는 저녁 8시가 넘었고 9시가 넘어서 우린 집에 도착했습니다. 몇 년 전에도 같은 멤버들이 <무진장>이란 이름으로 무주, 진안, 장수군을 투어를 했고, 캐나다 엘로우나이프까지 자동차로 달려서 오로라 투어를 하기도 했던 유별난 팀입니다. ‘어디를 가느냐보다도 누구와 함께 가느냐’가 더 중요한 것을 우리 모두는 알고 있습니다. 벌써 내년이 기대됩니다.
For our summer journey from July 3rd to 5th, we decided to call our trip the "Heung-Nam-Jin Tour," taking the final syllables of Jangheung, Haenam, and Gangjin. It was as though we took the familiar phrase "Heungnam Pier" and appended the last syllable "Jin" from Gangjin. This "Heung-Nam-Jin Tour" was a three-day, two-night summer excursion traveled in two cars by four families together. However, a weather forecast predicting the start of the monsoon season almost led us to cancel the trip just a week prior. Yet, realizing that the monsoon rains would hardly pour down in equal measure across every corner of our three-thousand-li peninsula, we pressed ahead as planned and enjoyed a wonderful journey throughout the scheduled days. Naturally, the rain caused no disruption whatsoever over the three days. Though rain fell at times during the night, the mornings greeted us with azure skies and white clouds, as clear and crisp as an autumn day.
There is no need to ask what we had for lunch in Beolgyo; naturally, we ate cockles at a cockle restaurant. We also stopped by the Taebaeksan Literary Museum in Beolgyo-eup, though by nature I am someone who favors nature over cultural exhibits. Moreover, a passing thought crossed my mind: if an author views the world through only one lens, listening only to what they wish to hear before penning a novel, then meeting countless people in the name of writing might not be fact-checking, but rather confirmation bias that simply reinforces preconceived notions. Still, to someone like me who has only known the transcription of the Bible, seeing the handwritten manuscripts of the novel The Taebaek Mountains opened a fresh perspective. What moved me most in Jangheung, known as "Mother's Embrace," was the Jeongnamjin Cypress Forest Woodland, and at its heart was the barrier-free wooden deck extending all the way to the summit. While there may still be shortcomings from the perspective of individuals with disabilities, building a deck walkway that allows wheelchair users to ascend to the summit of Mount Eokbul is truly an admirable act of consideration for the socially vulnerable.
The second day was devoted to exploring Gangjin. While I cannot recall the official promotional slogan representing Gangjin County, banners advertising a 50% travel discount were hung everywhere. Yet in truth, Gangjin was home to a proud historical legacy and the island of Gaudo, where natural beauty harmoniously meets human craftsmanship. If one evaluates the world strictly by dividing people into the haves and the have-nots, the poet Yeong-rang might be dismissed as merely a bourgeois intellectual. However, for travelers in their sixties and seventies who cherish memories of reciting poems like "Until Peonies Bloom," visiting his birthplace was a delightful encounter. After touring Yeong-rang's birthplace, we headed toward Dasan Chodang. Although the original thatched cottage has vanished and been replaced with a tiled roof, this is the very place where monumental works such as Mokmin Simseo and Gyeongse Yupyo were written. Furthermore, the tender friendship of Dasan, who would leave his wicker gate unlocked late into the night waiting for his friend, the Buddhist monk Hyejang, encourages us to reflect on our own lives. A deep bond where friends truly recognize and cherish one another is worthy of praise across all generations.
I will long remember the morning of our final day, when we encountered the upright lilies (Haneulmallari) early along the valley walking trail of Daeheungsa Temple in Haenam. Even a single blossom would usually prompt me to ready my camera, but here we were met by what was virtually a flourishing colony. Finally, the hydrangea garden at the 4est Arboretum, under the theme of "A Beautiful Walk with Flowers," was breathtakingly lovely. Entranced by their beauty—as if fresh from a refreshing shower under the overnight monsoon rain—everyone enthusiastically snapped photos in hopes of capturing the picture of a lifetime. Each household even purchased hydrangea pots to bring home, so I look forward to our own hydrangea garden in Dudong next year. On our way back, we stopped unexpectedly at a café named Yangtangguk, savoring a final moment of leisure while sipping coffee alongside the owner's explanation. By the time we returned to Dudong, Ulsan, it was past 8:00 p.m., and we arrived home past 9:00 p.m. A few years ago, this very same group journeyed through Muju, Jinan, and Jangsu under the tour name "Mujinjang," and we are truly an extraordinary team that once even drove all the way to Yellowknife, Canada, to view the aurora borealis. All of us know so well that "with whom you travel" matters far more than "where you go." I am already looking forward to next year.
Vir ons somerreis van 3 tot 5 Julie het ons besluit om ons reis die "Heung-Nam-Jin-toer" te noem, afgelei van die laaste lettergrepe van Jangheung, Haenam en Gangjin. Dit was asof ons die laaste lettergreep "Jin" van Gangjin gevoeg het by die welbekende uitdrukking "Heungnam-hawe". Hierdie "Heung-Nam-Jin-toer" was 'n someruitstappie van drie dae en twee nagte waarin vier gesinne in twee motors saam gereis het. Weens 'n weervoorspelling wat die aanbreek van die reënseisoen aangekondig het, is die reis egter 'n week vantevore amper gekanselleer. Maar aangesien die reënseisoen skaars oor die hele skiereiland van drieduisend li presies dieselfde hoeveelheid reën sou uitstort, het ons soos beplan voortgegaan en 'n wonderlike tyd tydens die vasgestelde tydperk geniet. Oor die drie dae het die reën natuurlik geen probleme veroorsaak nie. Hoewel dit snags soms gereën het, was die oggende helder met blou lug en wit wolke, net soos 'n vroeë herfsdag.
Dit is onnodig om te vra wat ons vir middagete in Beolgyo geëet het; natuurlik het ons kokkels by 'n kokkelrestaurant geniet. Ons het ook by die Taebaeksan Literêre Museum in Beolgyo-eup aangedoen, al is ek van nature iemand wat die natuur bo kultuur verkies. Daarby het 'n gedagte by my opgekom: as 'n skrywer die wêreld slegs met een oog bekyk en 'n roman skryf deur slegs te luister na wat hy wil hoor, kan die talle ontmoetings met mense dalk nie 'n feitekontrole wees nie, maar eerder 'n bevestigingsvooroordeel wat eie vooroordele versterk. Tog het die handgeskrewe afskrifte van die roman Die Taebaek-gebergte 'n nuwe horison geopen vir iemand soos ek, wat slegs vertroud is met die oorskryf van die Bybel. Wat my die meeste in Jangheung—bekend as die "Moederskoot"—aangegryp het, was die Jeongnamjin Sipreswoud-houtland, en die kern daarvan was die houtwandelpad wat tot heel bo by die bergtop aangelê is. Alhoewel daar vir mense met gestremdhede steeds tekortkominge mag wees, is die bou van 'n dekpad wat 'n mens in staat stel om in 'n rolstoel die top van die berg Eokbul te bereik, werklik 'n merkwaardige blyk van deernis en bedagsaamheid teenoor weerlose lede van die samelewing.
Die tweede dag was gewy aan 'n toer deur Gangjin. Ek kan nie die presiese slagspreuk onthou wat Gangjin-distrik bekendstel nie, maar baniere wat reisigers met 'n afslag van 50% gelok het, het oral gehang. Tog het Gangjin in werklikheid 'n trotse historiese erfenis gehuisves, asook die eiland Gaudo, waar natuurskoon en menslike skepping mekaar vind. As 'n mens die wêreld bloot beoordeel deur mense te verdeel in dié wat het en dié wat nie het nie, sou die digter Yeong-rang dalk as 'n bourgeois-intellektueel tersyde gestel word. Vir reisigers in hul sestigs en sewentigs wat herinneringe koester aan die opsê van sy gedigte soos "Totdat die pioene blom", was 'n besoek aan sy geboorteplek egter 'n hartlike ontmoeting. Nadat ons Yeong-rang se geboortehuis besigtig het, het ons na Dasan Chodang vertrek. Alhoewel die oorspronklike rietdakhuisie verdwyn het en deur 'n teëldakhuis vervang is, is dít die einste plek waar monumentale werke soos Mokmin Simseo en Gyeongse Yupyo geskryf is. Boonop laat Dasan se hegte vriendskap—wat die hekkie tot laataand toe oopgelaat het sodat sy vriend, die Boeddhistiese monnik Hyejang, hom kon besoek—'n mens diep nadink oor ons eie lewenswandel. 'n Vriendskap waarin mense mekaar werklik herken en liefhet, verdien lof oor alle eeue heen.
Die oggend van ons laaste dag sal my lank bybly, toe ons vroeg langs die bergstroom-wandelpad van Daeheungsa-tempel in Haenam op die regop lelies (Haneulmallari) afgekom het. Gewoonlik rig 'n mens dadelik jou kamera op selfs net 'n enkele blom, maar hier het ons op 'n hele колоnie van hulle afgekom. En laastens was die hortensia-tuin by die 4est Arboretum, met die tema "'n Pragtige wandelgang saam met blomme", asemrowend mooi. Betower deur die skoonheid—asof die blomme vars gewas is deur die nagtelike reën—het almal ywerig foto's geneem om daardie perfekte lewensfoto vas te lê. Elke gesin het boonop hortensias gekoop om huis toe te neem, so ek sien daarna uit om volgende jaar in Dudong ons eie hortensia-tuin te sien blom. Op pad terug het ons onverwags aangedoen by Yangtangguk, waar ons 'n laaste rustige oomblik geniet het terwyl ons koffie gedrink het met die eienaar se toeligting daarby. Toe ons uiteindelik in Dudong, Ulsan, terugkeer, was dit al oor 20:00, en ons het eers na 21:00 by die huis aangekom. 'n Paar jaar gelede het dieselfde groep onder die naam "Mujinjang" 'n toer deur Muju, Jinan en Jangsu onderneem; ons is werklik 'n uitsonderlike span wat selfs al per motor tot by Yellowknife in Kanada gery het om die noorderligte te aanskou. Ons weet almal maar te goed dat "saam met wie jy reis" baie belangriker is as "waarheen jy reis". Ek sien reeds uit na volgende jaar.