피렌체를 향한 우리가 탄 기차 Italo는 KTX에 손색이 없을만큼 빠르고 편리하고 깨끗했습니다. 창밖으로 스치며 지나가는 이태리 농촌의 풍경이 한결 정겨웠던 것은 포장도로보다는 일반 흙길이 자주 눈에 들어왔기 때문일까요? 개발이라는 이름으로 도로를 포장하고, 땅값을 올리는 일보다는 농사짓는 본래의 일에 진심인 나라라는 느낌을 받았습니다. 피렌체 역에 도착했을 때는 우리를 기다리기로 한, 집사님이 보이질 않았는데, 기차가 예정보다 빨리 도착했기 때문이었나 봅니다. 집사님을 뒤에 만나서, 함께 택시로 예약한 비엔비숙소로 향하는데, 본래 일방통행이 많은 도시인데다가, 여기 저기 새로운 보수공사 중이어서, 이탈리아 말을 아는 분의 도움은 피렌체에서도 필수적이었습니다.
피렌체한인교회 강광선 목사님의 환대는 정말 분에 넘쳤습니다. 어머니 손을 잡고, (한국 나이로) 다섯 살에 교회를 나가기 시작했고, 18살에 신학교를 입학해서, 조사, 강도사, 목사가 되어, 서울에서 개척교회를 두 번, 울산에서 한 교회 담임 목회를 24년을 한 후에 정년은퇴를 해서, 지금 일흔일곱이니, 교회들의 분위기가 낯설 리는 만무합니다. 하지만 피렌체에서 만난 강 목사님은, 이전에 만난 적도 없고, 이름이라도 한 번 들어본 적이 없는 분입니다. 다만 베네치아에서 목회하는 에스라 동문 박요한 목사님이 부탁을 했을 뿐인데, 분에 넘치는 환대를 받는다는 생각을 피렌체에 머무는 내내 가졌습니다. 비엔비에 짐을 내려놓고, 잠시 쉰 다음에, 목사님이 오셔서 다비드 상이 있는 미켈란젤로 공원 안내를 시작으로 피렌체뿐만 아니라 주변지역, ‘피사의 사탑’에 이르기까지, 일정에 적극적인 지원을 아끼지 않았습니다.
피렌체한인교회 강 목사님은 비록 세속도시에 살아도 성도의 교제가 어떠해야 하는지를, 몸소 보여주셨습니다. 뿐만 아니라 강 목사님이 수 십년 동안 예수님의 제자로 잘 훈련시킨 성도들의 모습도 감동적이었습니다. 목회자를 대하는 태도, 목회자의 부탁을 수용하는 태도는 정말 인상적이었습니다. 피렌체를 방문한 우리 부부를, 지역 명소로 안내를 하든, 식사대접을 하든 무엇을 하든지, 목자에게 순종하는 마음으로, 주께 하듯이 섬기는 모습에서 “성도가 서로 교통하는 것을” 믿는 신앙공동체의 교제를 배웠습니다. 어쩌면 강 목사님 자신이 “아씨시(Assisi)의 성 프란치스코”를 연구하고 흠모하여, 가난과 순종, 금욕을 실천하는 것을 목회의 지침으로 따르고 훈련시켰기 때문으로 보입니다.
4월 6일 첫 주일은 특별한 날이었습니다. 피렌체의 명소인 우피치 미술관은 매월 첫 주일은 무료관람이었으니, 가는 날이 장날인 셈입니다. 아마 가난한 사람들을 위한 메디치 가문의 배려였나 봅니다. 7시 반, 일찍 나갔는데도 우리보다 먼저 온 사람들이 백 명은 더 되어 보였습니다. 3시간 정도 잘 구경하고 나서도 다시 한 번 메디치 가문의 신세를 졌습니다. 토요일 저녁 입장시간이 지나서 들어가지 못했던 보볼리 정원을 방문했습니다. 메디치 가문의 귀부인을 위해서 만들어서 유럽정원의 샘플이 되었다는 정원입니다. 이 정원도 매월 첫 주일은 무료입장이었습니다. 또 정원 안에는 카페가 있어서, 피렌체가 내려다 보이는 탁월한 장소에서 가성비 좋은 점심식사를 할 수 있어서 감사했습니다. 한끼를 먹는다는 것은 집 떠나면 중요한 일이니까요^^
현지 교회를 빌려서 드리는 한인교회 주일예배는 오후 2시 반이었고 예배당에 들어서는 순간 찬양을 준비하는 누군가의 목소리는 예배당 홀을 가득채웠습니다. 우리의 여행을 도와주던 김정민 님이었습니다. 옛 시절을 기억나게 하는 찬송들도, 개역성경과 사도신경 교독도 모두 옛날 고향교회를 기억나게 하는 소품처럼 다가온 주일예배였습니다. 예배를 마치고, 목사님께서 피렌체에서 우리를 안내를 했던 분들과 함께 기억에 남는 저녁식사를 사주셨습니다. 그리고 목사님은 월요 오전 시간까지 직접 안내를 하셔서 나름 잘 보존된 중세 도시 ‘산 지미냐노’(San Gimignano)를 방문함으로써 피렌체 일정을 꽉 채워 주셨습니다.
The Italo train carrying us toward Florence was fast, comfortable, and clean—readily comparable to Korea's KTX. Passing through the Italian countryside, the views gliding outside our window felt all the more endearing, perhaps because rustic dirt roads caught my eye far more often than paved asphalt. I was left with the impression of a country genuinely devoted to the original labor of farming, rather than paving roads and driving up land values in the name of development. When we arrived at Florence station, the deacon who was supposed to meet us was nowhere to be seen, likely because our train had arrived earlier than scheduled. Soon after, we met the deacon and took a taxi together toward our reserved B&B. Since Florence is a city filled with one-way streets and was undergoing renovation work here and there, the help of someone who spoke Italian proved indispensable.
The hospitality shown by Pastor Kwang-sun Kang of the Florence Korean Church was truly overwhelming. Holding my mother's hand, I first began attending church at the age of five (in Korean reckoning). Entering seminary at eighteen, I served as a lay preacher, an evangelist, and an ordained pastor, planting two pioneer churches in Seoul and serving twenty-four years as the senior pastor of a single church in Ulsan before reaching retirement age. Now at seventy-seven, the environment and atmosphere of churches could hardly feel unfamiliar to me. Yet Pastor Kang, whom I met here in Florence, was someone I had never met before, nor whose name I had ever heard. It was simply that Pastor Yohan Park, a fellow alumnus of Ezra Bible Graduate University ministering in Venice, had put in a kind request on our behalf; yet throughout our entire stay in Florence, I felt blessed with warmth that far exceeded anything we deserved. After we unpacked our bags at the B&B and took a brief rest, the pastor came to guide us, beginning with Piazzale Michelangelo where the statue of David stands, and went on to generously support our itinerary across Florence and surrounding areas, all the way to the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
Pastor Kang of the Florence Korean Church showed us firsthand what Christian fellowship ought to look like, even while living in a secular city. Moreover, the demeanor of the congregation, whom Pastor Kang has faithfully nurtured as disciples of Jesus over decades, was deeply moving. Their reverence toward their pastor and their ready willingness to receive his requests were truly inspiring. Whether guiding us to local landmarks or treating us to meals, whatever they did for my wife and me during our visit to Florence, they served out of an obedient heart toward their shepherd, as though doing it unto the Lord. In their devotion, I witnessed anew the fellowship of a faith community that truly believes in "the communion of saints." Perhaps this reflects the fact that Pastor Kang himself has studied and admired St. Francis of Assisi, embracing poverty, obedience, and self-denial as guiding principles in his ministry and disciple-making.
The first Sunday, April 6, was a special day. The Uffizi Gallery, Florence's celebrated landmark, offers free admission on the first Sunday of every month, so our timing could not have been better. It seemed to reflect the historic generosity of the Medici family toward ordinary citizens. Even though we set out early at 7:30 a.m., there appeared to be well over a hundred people already waiting ahead of us. After enjoying a wonderful tour of about three hours, we once again benefited from the legacy of the Medici family. We visited the Boboli Gardens, which we had missed on Saturday evening due to closing hours. Built for the noblewomen of the Medici family, these gardens became the classic model for European landscape design. Here, too, admission was free on the first Sunday of the month. Furthermore, there was a cafe inside the gardens where we enjoyed a reasonably priced lunch with an exquisite view overlooking Florence, for which we were truly grateful. After all, enjoying a good meal is always of great importance when traveling away from home!^^
The Sunday worship service of the Korean church, held in a rented local sanctuary, took place at 2:30 in the afternoon. The moment we stepped into the sanctuary, a voice preparing praise songs filled the entire hall. It was Jung-min Kim, who had been assisting us on our journey. The familiar hymns stirring fond memories of past days, along with the responsive reading from the traditional Korean Bible and the Apostles' Creed, made the Sunday service feel like cherished heirlooms reminding me of my childhood hometown church. After worship, the pastor treated us to an unforgettable dinner alongside those who had guided us through Florence. On Monday morning, Pastor Kang personally guided us to the remarkably preserved medieval town of San Gimignano, bringing our time in Florence to a rich and complete finish.
Die Italo-trein waarin ons na Florence gereis het, was vinnig, gerieflik en skoon—geensins minderwaardig aan Suid-Korea se KTX nie. Terwyl die Italiaanse platteland by ons venster verbygegly het, het die natuurskoon des te meer gemoedelik gevoel, miskien omdat gewone grondpaaie baie meer dikwels as geteerde paaie my oog gevang het. Ek het die indruk gekry van ’n land wat nog opreg omgee vir die oorspronklike ambag van boerdery, eerder as om paaie te plavei en grondpryse kunsmatig op te jaag onder die vaandel van sogenaamde vooruitgang. Toe ons by die stasie in Florence aankom, was die diaken wat ons sou ontmoet nêrens te sien nie, waarskynlik omdat ons trein vroeër as geskeduleer aangekom het. Nie lank daarna nie het ons hom ontmoet en saam per taxi na ons bespreekte B&B vertrek. Aangesien Florence ’n stad is met baie eenrigtingstrate en boonop volop herstelwerk wat oral aan die gang was, was die hulp van iemand wat Italiaans praat werklik onontbeerlik.
Die gasvryheid van ds. Kwang-sun Kang van die Koreaanse Gemeente in Florence was waarlik oorweldigend en meer as wat ons verdien het. Aan my ma se hand het ek op vyfjarige ouderdom (volgens Koreaanse jare) die eerste keer kerk toe gegaan. Op agtienjarige ouderdom het ek teologie gaan studeer en later as hulpdiensleraar, proponent en predikant gedien; ek het twee nuwe gemeentes in Seoel geplant en daarna vier-en-twintig jaar lank as leraar van een gemeente in Ulsan gedien voor my emeritaat. Noudat ek sewe-en-sewentig is, kan die atmosfeer van kerke vir my kwalik vreemd wees. Nietemin was ds. Kang, wat ons in Florence ontmoet het, iemand wat ek nog nooit vantevore gesien het nie en wie se naam ek nog nooit eers gehoor het nie. Dit was bloot omdat ds. Yohan Park, ’n mede-alumnus van die Ezra Bybelse Nagraadse Universiteit wat in Venesië bedien, ’n vriendelike versoek gerig het. Tog het ek regdeur ons verblyf in Florence die gevoel behou dat ons met ’n onverdiende, oorvloedige gasvryheid ontvang is. Nadat ons ons bagasie by die B&B neergesit en ’n wyle gerus het, het die leraar self gekom om ons rond te wys—beginnende by Piazzale Michelangelo met sy Dawid-standbeeld, en het hy sonder huiwering ruimhartige bystand verleen vir ons hele reisplan, nie net in Florence nie, maar ook in die omgewing tot by die Skewe Toring van Pisa.
Ds. Kang van die Koreaanse Gemeente in Florence het persoonlik getoon hoe die gemeenskap van die heiliges behoort te wees, selfs te midde van ’n sekulêre stad. Boonop was die gesindheid van die lidmate, wat ds. Kang oor dekades heen getrou as dissipels van Jesus gevorm het, diep roerend. Hul houding teenoor hul leraar en die gewilligheid waarmee hulle aan sy versoeke gehoor gegee het, was werklik indrukwekkend. Of hulle ons nou na plaaslike besienswaardighede begelei het of vir ons etes aangebied het, wat hulle ook al vir ons as besoekende egpaar gedoen het, het hulle gedoen met ’n gehoorsame hart teenoor hul herder, asof hulle die Here self bedien. Daarin het ek opnuut die ware gemeenskap geleer van ’n geloofsfamilie wat bely: "Ek glo aan die gemeenskap van die heiliges." Miskien spruit dit daaruit dat ds. Kang self vir Franciscus van Assisi bestudeer en bewonder het, en armoede, gehoorsaamheid en selfverloëning as riglyne in sy eie bediening en dissipelskap beoefen het.
Die eerste Sondag, 6 April, was ’n besondere dag. Die beroemde Uffizi-kunsgalery in Florence bied elke eerste Sondag van die maand gratis toegang, so ons tydsberekening was volmaak. Dit was sekerlik ’n vrug van die Medici-familie se historiese vrygewigheid teenoor gewone mense. Al het ons reeds vroeg om halfagt vertrek, het dit gelyk of daar al meer as honderd mense voor ons in die ry gestaan het. Nadat ons sowat drie uur lank die rykdom van kuns geniet het, was ons weereens dank verskuldig aan die nalatenskap van die Medici-familie. Ons het die Boboli-tuine besoek, waarby ons Saterdagaand weens sluitingstyd nie kon ingaan nie. Hierdie tuine is destyds vir die edelvroue van die Medici-huis aangelê en het later as voorbeeld vir Europese tuine gedien. Ook hier was toegang op die eerste Sondag van die maand gratis. Daarbenewens was daar ’n koffiehuis binne-in die tuin, en ons was innig dankbaar om ’n bekostigbare middagete te kon geniet op ’n uitnemende plek met ’n uitsig oor die hele Florence. ’n Goeie maaltyd bly immers van groot belang wanneer ’n mens ver van die huis af reis!^^
Die Sondagdiens van die Koreaanse gemeente, wat in ’n gehuurde plaaslike kerkgebou gehou word, het om halfdrie die middag plaasgevind. Die oomblik toe ons die kerkgebou binnestap, het die stem van iemand wat lofsang voorberei het, die hele saal gevul. Dit was Jungmin Kim, wat ons tydens ons reis bygestaan het. Die bekende lofsange wat herinneringe aan vervloë dae opgeroep het, sowel as die wissel-lees uit die tradisionele Bybel en die Apostoliese Geloofsbelydenis, het soos kosbare aandenkings gevoel wat my aan my ou tuisgemeente herinner het. Na afloop van die erediens het die leraar vir ons, saam met diegene wat ons deur Florence begelei het, op ’n onvergeetlike aandete getrakteer. En ds. Kang het selfs Maandagoggend self as ons gids opgetree om ons na die pragtig bewaarde middeleeuse dorpie San Gimignano te neem, waardeur ons tyd in Florence tot ’n ryke en volkome einde gebring is.